Ah – the glory days of travel: excitement, romance and luxury. The first time I stepped onto a plane, the experience was alluring. Seating felt roomy (I was young), there was food on little trays, and the cabin crew visibly loved their jobs – or put on a good show of doing so. Not any more. Here are three (plus one) things that take the shine off air travel.
Mealtime Woes
On most flights these days, you don’t get a meal unless you are flying long haul. Perhaps that’s good for our waistlines in a more health conscious era, but there are some flights where you could do with a bit of sustenance. I’ve spent a lot of time on AA flights this year. Sure there are food choices available, but the range of sandwiches, cheese and crackers, chips and cookies available is not exactly inspiring. As a semi-vegetarian, I’d love to have more choice on board. Since it’s not there, I have to prowl the airport looking for something decent or starve. Let’s not talk about the prices – this is a money spinner, pure and simple, and it increases the feeling that you’ve been had.
Paying For Booking Seats
So far, for me at least, AA has been in the clear on this one, but others are not so great. On many of the budget European airlines you can’t pre-book seats at all. Those that do allow it want to charge you for the ‘inconvenience’. Last I heard, you needed a seat to fly, so why should you have to pay extra? It’s not as though you are getting any extra comfort – it’s still what the British call cattle class – economy to us. Economy?! It’s the airlines who are raking it in from this move.
Paying For Carrying Bags – Or Not
How are you to travel without a suitcase? While there are times when it’s best to travel light (a good packing list will help with this), if you’re traveling for more than a few days, you need a suitcase. This year I’ve noticed many airlines changing their rules on bags. On some domestic flights you pay for an extra bag, while on some European budget airlines, they charge you both for checking a bag and for not checking one – having their cake and eating it too. That is soooo unfair, as my six year old would say.
Bonus – Too Much Reality
I’ve been lucky enough to get seats with extra legroom on the last couple of flights. That means I’m near the jump seats the crew members use for takeoff and landing. I can tell by the way they talk that these seats are their living room, and they behave as if no one can hear them. There’s lots of bitching and moaning about other crew members, some passengers and the tours they are assigned. It’s a bit too much like being a part of a reality show for me.
With these trends and others, travel just isn’t what it used to be. I still love the excitement of seeing a new place, but flying has lost its allure for me. I feel like part of a herd – and that’s not a good way to start a trip. What are your pet peeves about travel?
Written by Travel News on November 5th, 2009 with no comments.
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I was 10 and living in suburban America when the Berlin wall fell. I remember learning about it in school and not quite understanding what it was all about. The Wall made another brief appearance during an undergraduate European history course (I understood it better that time around) and I began to appreciate the symbolism of this massive barrier. However, until I stood at the foot of one of the last remaining stretches of wall in Berlin, I had never fully pondered the impact of this structure on the people who lived in the city.
As I looked up at the relatively low wall (9 feet, 11 feet with the 2 feet of barbed wire that ran along the top of the wall – I had always imagined it to be higher), I wondered what it would be like to wake up one morning and not be able to see those I cared most about, to know that the landscape of my city had drastically changed, and that my home city may never be the same again.
The border was sealed off along Bernauer Strasse on August 13, 1961, causing a drastic shift in the daily lives of those living on this street. Residents of Prenzlauer Berg could no longer travel freely through their own neighborhood. Even worse, neighbors, friends, and relatives were separated from one another. The house across the street was suddenly part of a different political paradigm.
Due to the geographical placement of their homes, the people of Bernauer Strasse became directly implicated in this important period in post-war German history. Out of desperation and panic, people jumped out of the windows of apartments along Bernauer Strasse. Though some were successful in making it to West Berlin, many lost their lives.
The section of the former border strip running from Behmstrasse to Bernauer Strasse is now known as Mauer (“wall”) Park. In addition, you can see various fragments of the wall from Behmstrasse along Norwegerstrasse in the direction of Bornholmer Strasse or from Eberswalder Strasse along Bernauer Strasse. Along Bernauer Strasse, there is an informational wall 
(called a “street gallery”) with photos, testimonials and descriptions of experiences associated with the wall.
Another part of the memorial is the The Berlin Wall Documentation Center, located on Bernauer Strasse. It is home to a wide variety of exhibits, archival information, and opportunities to explore the history of the Berlin Wall. The center also hosts seminars on politics and other events throughout the year. It is open Tuesday-Sunday 10 a.m. – 6 p.m. (March to November: 10 a.m. – 5 p.m.).
S-Bahn station Nordbahnhof (S1, S2), U-Bahn station Bernauer Strasse (U8), Bus 245
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The Ardèche Gorge, the largest natural canyon in Europe, angles through southern France, northwest of Avignon. Its craggy limestone cliffs rise as high as 1,000 feet. The Ardèche River begins in the massif central, cuts through the gorge and crosses the plateau to flow into the Rhone.
The best-known landmark of the gorge is Vallon Pont d’Arc, a huge natural bridge arching far above the river. A pleasant way to spend part of a day is to rent kayaks and paddle along the river to the awe-inspiring bridge, perhaps stopping at a beach along the way for a picnic. Shortly after passing under the bridge you can come ashore, where the kayak rental company will meet you with transportation back to your car. Being on the water allows for an intimacy with the place that tourists who only watch from high on the cliff never experience.
Millennia ago, prehistoric people may have floated the river too, in hand-carved boats. You can see remnants of their lives on the plateau above the river, where standing stones remain, the dolmens and menhirs that had deep meaning in ancient times. In caves dotting the cliffs, arrowheads and knives are often found and, in some, paintings from Paleolithic times.
Along the cliff road are signs to the grottes (caves) or avens (deep holes). The most famous by far is Grotte Chauvet, near the Pont d’Arc. Discovered in 1994, its walls have more than 300 designs painted and engraved some 30,000 years ago. There are rhinoceroses, lions, bears, owls, mammoths and more, all beautifully rendered and in amazing perspective. The Chauvet works are the oldest found in the world so far.
The cave is closed to the public, but there’s an excellent exhibit in the nearby village of Vallon Pont d’Arc, open from mid-March to mid-November. It shows cave painting replicas and much more. There are artifacts from archeological finds, a reconstruction of a prehistoric dwelling, and full-size animal reproductions. At the end, there’s a movie that shows more about Chauvet Cave.
Quite different is Grottes de St-Marcel d’Ardèche, which is open to visitors. Walking down the long main passageway, you come to an array of beautiful rimstone pools, perhaps a hundred of them. Continuing through this enchanting place, you arrive at the last chamber, full of stalactites, stalagmites and other mineral formations. Classical music and lighting add to the effect.
L’Aven Grotte de la Forestiére, discovered in 1966, is open April to September. The cave has several levels, formed at different time periods. Near the surface are roots from trees that grew into the cave for its water. On a lower level, hundreds of animal bones were found, some from animals now extinct. In one 
chamber, the animals and fish that once lived here adapted to the dark environment and were eyeless and colorless.
The Grotte de la Madeleine contains beautiful and irregular formations set off by special lighting. This cave, set into the side of the cliff, can be reached from the river or from the plateau above. There’s a gift shop, snack shop, and a viewpoint overlooking the gorge.
Aven de Marzal was investigated in 1892 but left and forgotten until 1949, and now is open for guided tours daily between April and October. It has numerous stalactites, stalagmites, cauldrons and multi-colored crystals. A museum shows the equipment used for early explorations. There’s also a “”zoo” with life-sized models of prehistoric animals.
Finally, there is the splendid Aven d’Orgnac, an enormous cavern filled with strange and eery shapes, all carved by nature over eons. A staircase and pathway descend into the cavern, where lights show off the formations (you return to the top by elevator). It is open year-round.
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For more information, or to book, call your travel agent or visit The Yachts of Seabourn
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The immortal city of Rome is never more stunning than at night when all of its incredible buildings, fountains, and piazzas are artfully lit. My girlfriend Kristin and I have explored several walks throughout the city at night, but we keep coming back to one in particular, which takes us past many of Rome’s most impressive sites. If you have a good map and are willing to go on an adventure, this walk is perfect for you.
After the sun has set, we make our way toward the Ponte Sisto, the bridge that spans the Tiber River near the Spada Gallery. After catching a glimpse of the ancient river, we head to the nearby piazza, Campo dei Fiori. Usually filled with college students and 20-somethings, the piazza is full of nighttime revelry. I like to buy a beer at a nearby convenience store and sit on the obelisk in the center of the piazza to take in the spectacle.
From Campo dei Fiori, walk along Via dei Baullari to the main street of Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. Crossing Via Vittorio Emanuele II, walk through Piazza S. Pantaleo and along Via della Posta Vecchia until you reach the fountain-filled Piazza Navona. Though refurbishing work is often being done on the fountains, there is always at least one fountain on display. The finely carved gods, horses, and mermaids reflect the light off of the water. Its wonderful!
Leave Piazza Navona by the street that goes through its center. Take the 
short side street to Corso de Rinascimento. Turn left on Rinascimento, then take your first right. This street takes you straight to the Pantheon. There is something unbelievable about the Pantheon at night. It seems even more massive, even more gargantuan. Its dome, made from poured concrete, is the largest of its kind. I am not architecturally inclined but the dome never fails to make me stare with amazement.
The next bit of navigation takes a little cunning. Leave Piazza D. Rotonda on Via d. Seminario and try to continue going straight. When you cross Via del Corso, you can look to your right and see the beautifully lit Museo dei Risorgimento in the distance. Do not turn right however, continue going straight. If you can navigate the slightly winding streets well, you will come to Via Vincenzo where you will see signs for the Trevi Fountain. Turn left on Via Vincenzo and you will run right into it. The beautiful fountain, usually overrun with people, is peaceful at night.
The Trevi Fountain is the last stop on our walk, though there are plenty of places to go to from the fountain. The entire walk—from Ponte Sisto to Trevi Fountain—should take about one hour if you walk quickly. I find it nearly impossible to finish in this time however, because there are so many great stops along the way.
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Any tourist who visits Transylvania (western/central Romania) and asks “where’s Dracula?” is likely to be directed to Bran, the home of a medieval building that many tourist brochures call “Dracula’s Castle.” The 
problem: Bran actually has no connection with Dracula, whether you’re looking for the fictional Transylvanian count or the factual Wallachian prince. The consolation: Bran Castle is a stunning and spooky edifice whose true history is an interesting tale in itself.
As you approach the castle, you will encounter dozens of stalls that exploit the supposed Dracula connection by selling vampire-themed T-shirts, mugs and masks, as well as specimens of folk craft and musical instruments. So Bran is, among other things, a great place to buy a goofy souvenir.
If this commercialization seems a shame, it is worth bearing in mind that the real story of this castle, first constructed in the 14th century, has a lot to do with trade. Situated on a major road that linked the principalities of Transylvania and Wallachia, the castle was a customs point as well as a place where mercenary soldiers guarded the border. The castle, located atop a cliff, was erected by the citizens of nearby Brasov, the most southeasterly of the major cities of Transylvania. It would retain the function of Transylvanian border checkpoint until the 1800s.
Like the castle in Hunedoara, Bran Castle saw two particularly intense periods of physical development: during the era of Transylvanian ruler János Hunyadi in the 15th century, and during the time when Gábor Bethlen governed the area in the 17th century. The tallest part of the castle – the spindly tower with the lookout post at its peak – was added in 1622.
The castle started serving a different purpose after World War I, when there ceased to be a border here because Transylvania became a part of Romania. Owned by Brasov city until that point, the castle was donated to the royal family of Romania. Queen Maria adopted it as a summer residence during the 1920s and a small chapel in the castle grounds contains her heart.
A lot of what you see in the castle now, as you follow the designated tourist route around its four floors, dates back to Queen Maria’s period. You can see the bedrooms for the different members of the royal family, as well as their dining room, library and music room. Some furnishings reflect the fact that the queen – who was born in England – was a fan of Romanian folk crafts. But in addition 
to her touches, some artifacts from the frontier days are also on display, such as weapons and medieval traded goods.
The castle can be visited from 9 am till 5.30 pm, every day except Monday. Having wound around the different chambers, the route finally leads you to the pretty courtyard at the castle’s center.
Next to the castle, there is a “village museum” containing peasant buildings that were transferred here from villages in the surrounding area. The houses were originally constructed between the 18th century and the beginning of the 20th century. You can look inside to get a 
taste of typical peasant interiors – as opposed to the royal version of them found in the castle itself.
Heavily tourist-oriented, the town of Bran has plenty of restaurants and hotels. Hanul Bran, with an extensive covered terrace that looks right up to the castle, is quite a pleasant restaurant. Try its “Castel” cutlet, a slab of pork topped by a big chunk of liver and slathered with melted cheese.
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After strolling along the Spree River, standing in awe at the base of the Berliner Dom (Berlin’s celebrated cathedral) and bargaining for a large fur hat (a throwback from communist East Germany) from a local street 
vendor, I found myself in need of a good lunchtime wurst (sausage). My friend suggested we wander over to the nearby Alexanderplatz, a large public square and transport hub in the Mitte (city centre) district (formerly part of East Berlin).
Berliners often call it “Alex,” referring to a larger neighborhood stretching from Mollstraße in the northeast to Spandauer Straße and City Hall in the southwest. Berlin’s city hall is frequently called Red City Hall (referring to its color, not politics). It is a renaissance-styled red brick building built in the mid-18th 
century that was heavily damaged during the World War II and subsequently reconstructed (in the 1950s) according to the original architectural plans.
Most of the original buildings right on the Alexanderplatz were bombed during World War II. As the center of East Berlin, the square was used as a showcase of communist architecture. Many of these plain, hulking buildings still stand in the platz today. However, there are also several monuments that make Alexanderplatz stand out from the rest of East Berlin.
My sister and I were both enamored with the Weltzeituhr, a mod “world time clock.” It was constructed in 1969 as part of the square’s redevelopment phase. The Weltzeituhr features a revolving cylinder with the world’s 24 time zones, marked with the names of major cities in each zone. The clock is crowned by a simplified model of the solar system that revolves once per minute.
Alexanderplatz is also home to the famous Fernsehturm (TV Tower) or the Tele-spargel (toothpick) as it is commonly called by Berliners. Measuring 1197 feet, it is one of the largest structures in Europe. The Fernsehturm was built in 1969 by a team of German architects in collaboration with Swedish experts. It is comprised of a concrete shaft, a steel-clad metal sphere and a TV antenna. Views from the top are amazing. Be prepared, the line to go up is very long. If you have reservations at the revolving restaurant (Telecafé), you can bypass the line and go right up. Dinner reservations should be made well in advance.
Currently, Alexanderplatz is hosting a temporary outdoor photography exhibition to mark the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall. “Friedliche Revolution 1989/90” (Peaceful Revolution 1989/90). The 
exhibition is in English and German and can be visited until November 14, 2009. It is open 24 hours a day and admission is free.
If you’re interested in shopping for arts and handicrafts (paintings, wood carvings, jewelry, lanterns, bags, books, etc.), visit the nearby kunstmarkt (art market) at the Museumsinsel (Museum Island) next to the bridge every Saturday (11:00 AM – 3:00 PM) and Sunday (10:00 AM – 2:00 PM). Be sure to try the currywurst (sausage with ketchup and curry powder- yes, it’s delicious!) and gluhwein (spiced wine with a shot of rum).
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Coastal paradise on the azure Aegean, or great crossroads of the ancient world? Or both? Modern day Izmir on Turkey’s west coast is one of the most popular destinations for northern European vacationers and is also the birthplace of Homer, one of the greatest poets and storytellers of all time. The city was founded by the almost mythical Trojans thousands of years ago and was fought over by ancient Greeks, Alexander the Great, Romans, Arabs and eventually the Ottoman Turks who wrested control of the city from the victors of WWI, who at the time helped to carve up Turkey the way they carved up the Middle East.
Unfortunately for history buffs, approximately 70% of the city burned during the battle between Mustafa Kemal Attaturk (Father of the Turks) and the Greek Occupation Force following WW I. Even so, there are still ruins and castles and bazaars and crumbling white neighborhoods facing the sea that can satisfy any admirer of old civilizations.
Probably one the most significant sights in Turkey is the Kadifekale Fortress, originally built by Alexander the Great’s generals per his instructions. The fortress stands guard over the city from a height of 250 feet and is an ideal 
place to watch the sunset over the Aegean. Ruins from Izmir’s Roman and Greek past can be seen in dramatic fashion at the Agora, where recent finds include the remains of a temple of Zeus built almost 2000 years ago. At Bayrakli, the ruins of the original site of Smyrna (ancient Izmir) are still open to the public. This site was moved by Alexander to the hilltop above the city for defensive purposes.
Izmir is a great place to shop (as are most middle eastern cities): there are bazaars and kervansarays (marketplaces where caravans stopped, and merchants slept and did business) throughout the city, selling all manner of carpets, trinkets, jewelry and pottery. The most famous bazaar in Izmir is the Kemeralti, which sprawls around the old Kizlargasi Hani kervansara. And after exploring the markets for a full day, consider a dip in one of Turkey’s most famous thermal spas at Balcova, either immediatly before or after sunset.
Most people go to Izmir for the white sand beaches of the Aegean. The beaches around Izmir are full during the high seasons of summer and winter. There are kebabs and shisha, tanned Swedish women and slick Turkish men and some of the most beautiful and peaceful bays you will find anywhere. The beach areas leading up into the city turn into thumping club districts and elegant sipping lounges at night. If you are young and looking for some action, you can find it and if you would rather relax and have a few cocktails that works fine too.
Turkish food is excellent and Izmir cuisine is particularly delicious. Here you can have fresh fruit all year long, fresh fish (fried, grilled or steamed) served in various kebab styles and local specialties like Izmir cheese and Izmir kebabs (Tulum Peyniri and Kumru respectively). A two week sojourn through the 
bazaars, along the beaches and through the cafes eating and drinking non-stop — this is what a standard vacation to Izmir can be. One of the best areas to experience the easy living of Izmir is the Alsancak district, a favorite for visitors looking for baklava, tea, shisha and other tasty dishes.
Izmir is a great third stop in any tour of Turkey — after jaw-dropping Istanbul and the ruins of Cappadocia, Izmir and its beaches, cafes and lazy walks around the bazaars is a welcome — no, perfect — next destination.
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We arrived at sunset. The Temple of Apollo, now just a remnant of the original, ancient edifice, clung to a rocky outcrop just north of the port. We walked out along the quay to see the stone pillars, backlit against the 
pomegranate-red sunset. Others stood in small groups viewing the ruins. The only sound was of the waves cutting against the rocks.
This peaceful introduction to Naxos set the tone for our visit. Naxos, Greece has only recently discovered tourism and it still retains a sleepy atmosphere in keeping with its agricultural roots. The largest island in the Cyclades chain, Naxos has a hilly, green interior that is ringed by sandy beaches and small towns. We based ourselves in Chora Naxos and settled in for a wonderful week of leisurely exploration.
Lining the waterfront promenade of this busy town, are several open-air restaurants. And despite their touristy appeal, quite a few offer delicious, fresh seafood at a reasonable cost. Alleys lead back from the waterfront into the winding streets of the town’s Venetian quarter, the Kastro. In a full week of exploring this area, we could never quite map-out the intricate maze of narrow pedestrian streets. And it was this feature that contributed to the charm of stumbling upon hidden shops and plazas. We often found breakfast by discovering a bakery as it opened, and paying a mere euro for a delicious, hot spankopita off the tray.
One morning, we wandered into an inviting café that was tucked away somewhere up a hill. Its dark wood interior framed charming windows that opened to a cobblestone alley below. It was a neighborhood place, lovingly tended by the owners who invited us back that night for ouzo, appetizers, and traditional Greek music. This type of small-town friendliness is common on Naxos, many of whose residents are still farmers or fishermen.
The towns people take great pride in the Naxos Castle and the adjacent Tower of Glezos. The castle, surounded by a pentagonal wall, long served as a fortification, and most recently was transformed into the Venetian Museum. Entrance to the museum, which sponsors classical music concerts in the summer months, is just inside the gates of the castle.
Chora’s main square is a bustling mix of tourist restaurants and bars. It’s the best place on the island to catch a soccer game, and is a lively mixture of visitors and locals. Chora Naxos also boasts some of the best Mexican food in Greece at the Picasso Mexican Bistro, an expat-owned restaurant that will satisfy any homesickness with a heaping plate of beans, sizzling peppers, and homemade tortillas.
To the south, the town gives way to Agios Georgios, a crowded but pretty stretch of beach, popular for swimming. We, however, preferred the narrow beaches of Plaka and Agia Anna, a few minutes further down the road, that were full of bars, snack shops, live music, and more youthful crowds.
Having heard about Naxos’ lovely interior, we planed to rent motorcycles and explore. Unfortunately, we were provided with a less glamorous option: a 4-Wheeler. These squat, hardy machines top out at around 40 mph. We rented a bright purple creature and took off into the mountains. Despite the indignity of sleek Ducatis passing our silly little 4-Wheeler, we learned that independent transport is really the best way to see Naxos. We wound through gray olive groves, quaint farms, and tiny villages comprised of a few white, sun-baked homes. We refueled in the mountain village of Filoti, a cluster of buildings perched above a wide agricultural valley, and were delighted by the sight of Mt. Zeus, the island’s highest point, which cast its shadow over the valley.
In the town of Halki, the Vallindras Distillery makes citron, a liquor distilled from the local fruit of the same name. We toured the distillery, which has been in operation since the late 19th century and still uses its original methods and equipment. At the end of our complimentary tour, the guide poured a taste of the sweet, citrusy, emerald-green liquor. The traditional processes used to make citron, its homegrown ingredients, and the distillery’s new focus on tourism, perfectly embodied the changing character of this quiet island.
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Travel to Europe – The Netherlands, Spain, Germany, France, Italy, Portugal – this Fall and Winter at great fares!
Depart from 10/30/2009 – 3/28-2010 and return by 6/28/2010. A Saturday night stay is required, and the maximum stay is limited to 3 months.
You must book by November 5, 2009.
Examples of your options from New York are:
Amsterdam from $310*
Lisbon from $ 280*
Rome from $321*
Barcelona from $321*
Examples of your options from San Francisco are:
Frankfort from $366*
Madrid from $377*
Paris from $410*
Marseille from $410*
Other departure cities are available.
*One-way based on round trip purchase. Additional fees and conditions may apply.
For more information, contact your travel agent or Lufthansa
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